The Allure of Cheese Scones in New Zealand
The Australia Letter is a weekly newsletter from our Australia bureau. This week’s issue is written by Pete McKenzie, a reporter based in Auckland, New Zealand.
During a recent pilgrimage back to Wellington, the capital of New Zealand and the place where I spent my formative years, my thoughts were consumed by three things: the warmth of family, the joy of reconnecting with friends, and, of course, the irresistible allure of cheese scones. While the first two were the primary reasons for my visit, it was the third that truly ignited my excitement.
In my later years in Wellington, I indulged in cheese scones almost every morning—until a concerned friend intervened, worried about my health. It turns out I wasn’t alone in my obsession. Less sweet than the traditional British scone and bursting with flavor, the cheese scone has become a staple of the New Zealand diet. It’s nearly impossible to enter a café here without spotting a tantalizing plate of these golden delights on the counter.
When chatting with locals about cheese scones, the enthusiasm is palpable. Eugene O’Connor, a 29-year-old consultant from Wellington, described his “crazy love affair” with these “delicious bites of buttery goodness.” Aimee Cox, a 25-year-old student who moved to the United Kingdom for her studies, lamented the absence of cheese scones, saying, “I’ll be dreaming of cheese scones until I set foot on home soil.”
However, not all cheese scones are created equal. Upon moving to Auckland, New Zealand’s largest city, I quickly discovered that the scones there often fell short of my expectations—either too dry or lacking the rich, cheesy flavor that defines the Wellington variety. Determined to satisfy my craving, I decided to visit the kitchen of one of Wellington’s oldest and most beloved cafés, Floriditas.
Floriditas is renowned for its Cheddar and arugula scones, expertly crafted by baker Holly Sinclair, who begins her day at 6 a.m. After spending years honing her skills in the United States and Canada, Holly found returning home to be a delightful culture shock. “It’s a bit of a time warp when you come back here from overseas. I mean that in the best possible way,” she chuckled, as she skillfully poured flour, cayenne, and butter into an industrial mixing machine. In New Zealand, the café scene is predominantly independent, a refreshing contrast to the commercial chains found elsewhere. Local tastes favor what is familiar and beloved.
“New Zealanders are creatures of habit. Our isolation plays a significant role in this,” Holly remarked. I often reflect on the stereotype of New Zealanders as hobbits, popularized by The Lord of the Rings, and I believe it holds a kernel of truth. Holly laughed in agreement, suggesting that this might partially explain the nation’s obsession with cheese scones. “We embrace the familiar. We’re smaller and more quaint than the Americans,” she added with a smile.
