Rediscovering Riomaggiore: The Love’s Lane Reopens
In the picturesque village of Riomaggiore, one of the five enchanting hamlets that form the stunning Cinque Terre on Italy’s northwestern coast, the Via dell’Amore, or Love’s Lane, holds a special place in the hearts of locals and tourists alike. This breathtaking coastal trail, which meanders toward the neighboring village of Manarola, has long been a favored spot for couples seeking romantic sunset views. As Marinella Cigliano, a vibrant woman in her sixties, fondly recalls, “What kind of love lane would it be if it didn’t inspire young lovers?”
For many, this trail has served as more than just a scenic walkway. Roberta Pecunia, who grew up in the area, reminisces about her experiences as a young mother: “We brought our children here in strollers; it was the perfect place for leisurely afternoon strolls.” Her grandfather, Brizio, was among the dedicated villagers who, in the 1930s, carved this iconic path into the rocky cliffs to connect the coastal towns.
The trail holds memories of generations. Vittoria Capellini shares a poignant story about her father, who used to walk the trail to school as a boy. His mother would urge him to “run like crazy” past the sections where the cliff was particularly precarious. Sadly, her family’s joyful memories were overshadowed when a significant rockslide occurred in 2012, leading to the trail’s closure. This incident left trekkers from around the globe disappointed and isolated the local community, which relied on the trail for convenient access to essential services, schools, and shops. The only remaining options were often overcrowded trains, ferries, or a challenging uphill trek. “For us, it was a tragedy,” reflected Ms. Cigliano, who now manages a luggage deposit near the Riomaggiore train station.
After years of anticipation, the beloved trail has finally reopened to tourists this month, following a significant investment of 24 million euros (approximately $26 million). This extensive renovation aimed to secure the cliffs and prevent future landslides, ensuring safety for all who traverse this iconic path. However, local officials are now contemplating the implications of the reopening in an era where tourism has surged dramatically. As Massimo Giacchetta, the regional president of a small-business association, aptly notes, “We must consider the kind of tourism that transforms the Cinque Terre into a veritable Disneyland.”
