Credit
Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Sophia Eleni Pappas.
In my childhood home, the concept of “Korean-barbecue attire” was synonymous with well-worn T-shirts and sweatpants designated for our indoor grilling nights. Our dining rituals involved setting up a makeshift grill right at the dining table, where a portable butane stove served as the centerpiece. Perched upon it was a striking three-foot steel dome pan, a bespoke creation by a skilled metalworker who happened to be a friend of my mother’s. This futuristic-looking apparatus perfectly accommodated our sizzling galbi (soy-marinated short ribs), samgyeopsal (decadently fatty pork belly), and chadolbaegi (thinly sliced brisket that crisped upon contact with the pan). These fiery feasts were both meticulous in preparation and laid-back in execution, creating unforgettable dining experiences with minimal fuss.
Recipe: Korean BBQ Steak
If you could witness the aftermath of these gatherings, you’d find a scene of utter chaos. Our beloved basketball jerseys and nostalgic band T-shirts unfailingly ended up in urgent need of a wash post-barbecue. As for the iconic flying-saucer pan, it became a cherished culinary companion until I relocated it to New York, never to return it (the pan’s weight made it a one-way trip). For those without access to a custom Korean-barbecue pan, fear not. A traditional outdoor grill paired with marinated steaks, sliced post-grilling, serves as a fitting alternative. This ingenious adaptation was a lesson gleaned from Peter Cho, the talented chef behind Jeju in Portland, Oregon.
