The Enchanting Camargue: A Symphony of Nature
A flamboyance of flamingos gracefully feasted on plankton in a marsh adorned with reeds. The tranquil waters mirrored their elegant silhouettes beneath the clouds, which were tinged with hues reminiscent of their vibrant plumage, all illuminated by the warm embrace of the setting sun. Suddenly, my guide urged me to seize my binoculars: I spotted black silhouettes of cattle wading through the marsh, reminiscent of hippos basking in the Serengeti. I had never witnessed such an elegant display of bovine grace in water. This aquatic ballet encapsulated the essence of the Camargue.
Nestled in the largest delta in Western Europe, the Camargue is a rustic gem of France, where the mighty Rhône River meets the azure Mediterranean Sea. This land boasts more water than land and more bulls than inhabitants. It serves as a sanctuary for thousands of migratory birds that flock to its nutrient-rich environment. The landscape is a vibrant mosaic: lush farmland, azure lagoons, sandy beaches, and white salt flats emerging from marshes tinged with pink hues, thanks to microscopic shrimp. “The landscape changes every day,” remarked my guide, Jean-Yves Boulithe, 56. Yet, the Camarguais culture, rooted in the traditions of fishermen and the mustachioed cowboys known as gardians, evokes a timelessness that feels like it has lingered since the early 20th century — a sentiment echoed by the limited availability of Wi-Fi and cell service.
The Camargue is best appreciated at a leisurely pace, a notion I kept at the forefront of my mind as I rented a car in Marseille last April for an expansive tour of this captivating region, which hugs the coastline approximately halfway between Marseille and Montpellier, just south of the bustling tourist hub of Arles. I had been forewarned about the brisk mistral winds and the pesky mosquitoes that tend to deter less adventurous travelers. Remembering this, I packed sturdy footwear that could withstand the mud, as many areas are only accessible on foot, horseback, or by bike.
A Land of Salt and Mosquitoes
One of the highlights was a marsh near the Mas de l’Ange du Vaccarès, a charming guesthouse whose owner graciously offers sunset bird-watching tours. Here, the beauty of nature intertwines with the serenity of the surroundings.
Near Arles, the Rhône River divides into two branches, the Petit and Grand, and within this wishbone lies the approximately 300-square-mile Île de Camargue. The river’s annual floods have posed challenges for the island ever since Phocaean traders and farmers first arrived from Marseille in 600 B.C. In 1869, Napoleon III completed an intricate system of sea dikes and river canals that not only managed the floods but also transformed the landscape, creating the unique and diverse environment we cherish today.
